Patterns didn't use to be 20 pages long!
Just look at this pattern from 1939 - roughly 1/3 of a page in two columns make up the entirety of the directions! To get your size and fit, you couldn't just follow the pattern.
Size: 32" circumference at underarm (for 38-40" bust). Length: 18" shoulder to hem (20" stretch).
Yarn: 2-ply Shetland wool
Needle size: No 8 (that would be a US size 6 or 4mm needle today)
Given the 2-ply yarn is knit on a modern size 6 needle, this would be a very loose knit - no wonder the stretch of a 32" circumference to fit a 38-40" bust!
Instructions: Back: Cast-on set number of stitches, knit in ribbing (k2, p2) for set number of rows, knit for another set number of rows, bind off as described to shape armholes. Front: Repeat the back except for specific neck shaping instructions. Finish: No need to press (or block, I guess)! Just seam sides, shoulders, and add a crochet edge to neck and armholes. Insert narrow ribbon to pull neckline to size. Done.
Wow, that's basically what my scratch notes look like when I'm creating a design. Such little information, no how-tos, no inclusive sizing. If you wanted to make this garment, you had to know gauge (no gauge spelled out - you have to figure it out based on finished measurements and number of cast-on stitches or rows given) and then increase or decrease the number of stitches or rows based on the measurements you need.
That means you had to know your body measurements and enough about design and shaping and gauge to make a garment fit you. You had to take it upon yourself to learn a crochet edge (any type, apparently). And you had to figure out how much yarn to buy because how many yards are in 2 ounces of Shetland, 2-ply wool?!
1980s: Patterns gave slightly more information
Design knowledge = better garments
Today our patterns are to be size inclusive, accommodating a wide range of bust sizes 28 - 64". They often are some 20 pages long and even offer technique instructions (i.e., how to do a particular cast-on or carry out short rows). On one hand, the more information for the knitter, the better - I guess. It likely allows a new knitter to just follow the pattern to some success. Even with all the extra information in patterns today, style preferences and good fit still aren't guaranteed. This, along with some other considerations, are why I have come to believe that a different approach to garment knitting is better.
We can see that those earlier days of knitting patterns required more engagement and learning on the part of the maker. A maker had to know one's body measurements and have an understanding of overall garment construction and determining key pattern elements like gauge.
Today, I see article after article on 'how to get garment fit' and/or 'how to ensure you like the garment you knit'. I've written those myself. I've heard grumbles and even a bit of shock from makers when I encourage not just choosing a size and following the stitch and row counts exactly, but to take measurements, see how one's measurements fit across pattern sizes, and then take those measurements and do the math to ensure fit, all of which is decidedly not just following the pattern.
I've also encouraged makers to really analyze what they like to wear. If shallow round necks aren't your thing, why follow the pattern instructions for a shallow, round neck? It seems obvious but so many knitters don't give thought as to whether they'll actually like wearing specific style elements. I do think we're drawn to how a garment looks on a model and that can deter us from thinking about these things, but we really must do the work to realize how we like garments to fit, what style elements we feel most comfortable in, and especially understand that one size on a pattern will likely not fit all of our body measurements. Even with all the additional sizes given in patterns today, there's no way all bodies conform to all the measurements within a given size.
Learning design elements to be able to change a shallow neck to a deeper scoop because the latter is what you love to wear is key to successful garment making. Understanding the basics of shaping a garment to fit your measurements is key to fit. In other words, getting some garment design knowledge under your belt is invaluable to us as knitters. Average knitters - not even talking about professional designers.
My favorite advocate on style and fit success is Kim McBrien Evans. I have learned so much from her to advance my garment making skills. Check out this series she did for Modern Daily Knitting on copying a favorite garment. She also has a new book coming out in just a few weeks that I can't wait to own: The Knitter's Sweater Fitting Bible.
I just completed my first garment pattern - will I do it again?
I'm still undecided. Because of all that is required today in a pattern, the writing of said pattern takes months from design inception to written pattern. There's swatching and testing, then making the garment, taking good notes and writing the pattern. If you do your own grading (the process of adding multiple sizes - not just engaging in a lot of math but truly considering how garments look on all body shapes), it's very time consuming. As if the process of designing, making, and writing up the original size isn't time consuming enough. Hiring a tech editor is a must - and expensive. And they don't catch everything. And you don't catch everything. As in errors. Errors are frustrating. If you go the route of test knitters, it's another can of worms - again time consuming and potentially expensive. And then the complaints about paying for patterns. Or worse, the excitement at getting a free pattern. I've included my patterns in kits when buying yarn as a promotional tool. Why? Because I'll only ever be paid a pittance for what it takes to create a modern garment pattern for knitting; I've created the pattern to sell the yarn where I have more of a chance to turn a profit. Maybe. This is true for all designers except those that go viral. My true belief is that knitting patterns should never be free and should be relatively expensive. When I've purchased patterns from designers, I've tried always to pay designers fairly, to come to an agreement together. The designer's work is tedious, time consuming, and should be monetarily rewarded. But mostly, it's not.
So if I'm considering not pursing any more garment patterns, was all my time spent learning garment design a waste? I suspect you already know my answer to that question. In case it's not clear, let me make it so: Absolutely, unequivocally no - not a waste. I'm still incredibly excited about the process of design inspiration, sketching, swatching, testing, learning, executing. Because of what I now know from designing (techniques for style preferences, shaping, getting fit), I feel confident and able to create garments for myself that I know I'll truly love to wear.
To you, dear knitter, final thoughts. Learn more about design. Maybe find an old pattern with scant information and do the task of learning to fill in the blanks. Expand your understanding - of knitting, garments, your own style, and your own fit. And pay designers for patterns. Don't blink an eye at that. Consider the wages your own job offers you and then remember what knitwear designers invest in their work. Be understanding with pattern errata. But mostly, learn about design to build your confidence and success as a garment knitter. I believe it will be very satisfying. At least it is for me.
- Until next time, find joy in making with our yarn. -- Amy